Ten Seats in Japantown
I've done a lot of omakase in this city and most of it is either theatrical or transactional. This one is neither. Seventeen pieces, ninety minutes, two chefs who barely speak while they work, and a rice temperature that made me put my phone face-down for the entire meal.
The Rice
Everyone talks about the fish and almost nobody talks about the shari, which is the actual difference between good and great omakase. Here it's body temperature, loosely packed, seasoned with red vinegar so it reads savory rather than sweet. Every piece falls apart the moment it hits your tongue.
The Pace
Ninety minutes, no lulls, no long speeches. They hand you the piece and expect you to eat it immediately, which you should — the temperature contrast is the whole design. If you're a photographer, take one shot and put the phone down.
Is It Worth $185?
Honestly, it depends on how often you do this. Once a year, absolutely — this is the best sushi I've eaten in San Francisco. Monthly, no. Skip the sake pairing if you're budget-conscious and order one bottle for the table instead.
Getting a Seat
Reservations release thirty days out at midnight. Two seatings a night, 5:30 and 8. The later one is calmer and the chefs are looser. Solo diners can often get same-day cancellations if you call at 4pm.
What I ate, dish by dish
Scored the same way as everything else on this site — honestly, and with the understanding that not every plate deserves your money.
- Kinmedai, lightly torched9.8
Skin blistered, flesh barely warm. First piece of the night and it set the whole tone.
- Chutoro, aged nine days9.9
Melts in a way that sounds like a cliché until it happens to you. The best bite of my year so far.
- Hokkaido Uni on Shari+$189.7
The supplement. Take it. Sweet, oceanic, no iodine edge at all.
- Nodoguro with Yuzu Kosho9.5
Fatty throat-fish, bright citrus heat. This is where the kitchen shows its hand.
- Anago, sweet glaze9.2
Sea eel, brushed and torched. Soft enough to break with chopsticks.
- Tamago8.8
Custardy, faintly sweet, served last as a full stop. A quiet way to end it.
- Seventeen-Piece Omakase$1859.0
Steep. Also the meal I've recommended most this year. Sake pairing is $75 and genuinely good.
